V-Berth Repair O’Day 20 (1974)

Questions about boat repairs with our resins and fiberglass: hull patches, transoms and stringers, foam, rot etc.
fallguy1000
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Re: V-Berth Repair O’Day 20 (1974)

Post by fallguy1000 »

Start off leaving the 2". If it seems easy to remove and after you have templates made for repair pieces; you can decide then to cut it all away. You may realize it is jist too much trouble if well adhered. Otoh, if it is barely on, make cardboard templates early. Much easier to make a cardboard template now...
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Re: V-Berth Repair O’Day 20 (1974)

Post by Fuzz »

Very good advice to make a template before removing the old stuff. If you do cut everything out lay the multi-tool blade flat against the hull to make the cuts. You will not risk cutting into the hull that way and you will have less glass left to grind off.
On a side note my first sailing experiences were in an O'Day 20 so it brings back some memories. :D

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Re: V-Berth Repair O’Day 20 (1974)

Post by Jaysen »

Fuzz wrote: Sat Nov 27, 2021 4:18 pm If you do cut everything out lay the multi-tool blade flat against the hull to make the cuts. You will not risk cutting into the hull that way and you will have less glass left to grind off.
Fuzz and I may disagree on the danger of cutting into the hull using this method. The hull will curve sharply below the berth. Typically at a rate that is much steeper than above the berth. The berth can be thought of as sitting at the apex of the chine (as much as the oday can be thought of as having a chine.

If you’re thinking ahead you will realize that this means that you have the same problem cutting from the bottom to the top as you would cutting from the top to the bottom. The solution seems to be cutting half way in each direction. I helped do this on a boat recently and we had to leave about a quarter inch from the hull in the first cut. Once removed we took several more passes with the saw blade to get as close ass possible. Final passes were sanding to remove residual and prep. It was a lot of work. On the plus side we didn’t have any gouges to fixe other than the ones created by the first attempts to get it in one pass.

Blah blah blah… be careful and you’ll be fine. Nothing you do is unfixable. Lots of pics as some of us really like to build vicariously.
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Randy Michaelis
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Re: V-Berth Repair O’Day 20 (1974)

Post by Randy Michaelis »

Thank you for your thoughtful responses to this question. Here is the plan:
1. Buy a multitool. ✅
2. Use cardboard to make a template before I cut anything
3. Use the tool to cut the plywood about two inches from the hull.
4. Remove the cut plywood
5. Examine what I have. Take pics and see what the panel of experts think 🤔

I have sailed a small 14’ boat much of my life (my dad made it from popular mechanics plans in our garage in the mid-sixties.) But this is my first real sailboat and greatly appreciate the wisdom of this group.
Randy

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Re: V-Berth Repair O’Day 20 (1974)

Post by fallguy1000 »

Randy Michaelis wrote: Sat Nov 27, 2021 8:57 pm Thank you for your thoughtful responses to this question. Here is the plan:
1. Buy a multitool. ✅
2. Use cardboard to make a template before I cut anything
3. Use the tool to cut the plywood about two inches from the hull.
4. Remove the cut plywood
5. Examine what I have. Take pics and see what the panel of experts think 🤔

I have sailed a small 14’ boat much of my life (my dad made it from popular mechanics plans in our garage in the mid-sixties.) But this is my first real sailboat and greatly appreciate the wisdom of this group.
Randy
Real good plan..
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Re: V-Berth Repair O’Day 20 (1974)

Post by Randy Michaelis »

Step two. Make a template is now complete. See pics
Next step will be cutting.
Stay tuned
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Re: V-Berth Repair O’Day 20 (1974)

Post by fallguy1000 »

Another tool that is handy is a 4" circular saw. I bought an el cheapo at Menards for $47 about 3 years ago with a carbide blade. It cuts much faster than the multi tool, but can't get into nooks and crannies or up to the hull edge. If you are hating the multi tool; make sure it is a decent one. I have used like 10 Harbor Freight multis diring my build and could have gotten a good one. I always use carbide blades which they don't sell good ones or any at HF and I get those from woodworking shops. The 4" circ saw will love to cut through the boat, so if you use it or any circ saw; set the blade depth low to avoid cutting through the boat and end the cuts naturally and ise the oscillating tool to finish the cuts.

I hate gving the circ saw advice because it is a dangerous tool for people with experience and can be tricky to use in small places and with curves. But it will speed the job and save the carbide oscillating bit.
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Re: V-Berth Repair O’Day 20 (1974)

Post by fallguy1000 »

Also, did you remove the vinyl liner? I see a lot of rot up toward the bow and I'd like to see behind the liner.

The 70s had a lot of boats with balsa cores and before you put any money or much time in; need to make sure the hullsides are not rotten balsa cores.
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Re: V-Berth Repair O’Day 20 (1974)

Post by fallguy1000 »

Whether you like it or not; this needs thorough inspection behind the liner with some pictures and prodding. If the hull is all loose after you remove the vinyl; a good chance you have rotten core. If so, everything changes, but hopefully O Day just stayed with frp in the 70s.

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Re: V-Berth Repair O’Day 20 (1974)

Post by OrangeQuest »

I have used like 10 Harbor Freight multis diring my build and could have gotten a good one. I always use carbide blades which they don't sell good ones or any at HF and I get those from woodworking shops.
A lot of times people burn through electric tools because they try to force them to do the job faster than they are made to. It dulls the blades and burns up the motor. The wood cutting blades will get the gullet full of sawdust and stop cutting so the blade needs to keep moving to keep the gullets clear. A circular blade does this for you, the multi-tool does not and needs to be moved so the area of the blade doing the cutting can clear it's gullets. When I started using my two cheapos from Harbor Freight (got the single speed free cause I spent more than $50.00 and the variable-speed I got on sale for less than $20.00) I was thinking the half moon blades I was using were getting dull to fast till I started using a rocking motion to keep the gullets cleared and they last a lot longer and cut faster without burning the wood. Don't force the tool to cut, just slight pressure and keep where the blade cuts moving.

To keep from getting to close to the hull, the first cut, use a 2X4 as a guide for the blade. The plywood looks like it is already coming apart so it may not take to much to cut it, it may just fall apart as you try to cut it. If that is the case you may be able to use a sturdy putty knife, board for a guide and tap the knife through a little at a time. Dried out, delaminated plywood is easy to cut through.
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