Looks great in the sun!
With your quality glass work, fairing won't be too bad. Enjoy!
Another FS17 Build Thread
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Re: Another FS17 Build Thread
I learned with my dory that spray rails do not have to be big to do a good job. I am sure you will be happy you added them.
Re: Another FS17 Build Thread
Looks good, don't be afraid of screw holes just fill them full of a mix of epoxy mixed with wood flour after you remove them.
Tom
Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
Re: Another FS17 Build Thread
I have read quite a few strings that described both the installation of the rub rails and spray rails. One thing that I have noticed is that there appears to be an issue with the leading end "popping off" after the installation screws are removed. That does not always happen, but it has occurred for some projects. I received a note when I first started this project from a gentleman that said that his bow had opened up once he removed the stitches. Based on that advice I added a little cloth there to ensure I did not have that issue.
So for the spray rail I installed it with the west system six10 thickened epoxy, I bedded the rails really well, roughed both the boat side and rail side, I applied pressure with the temporary screws until the epoxy started to bulge out and the rail was a little snug but far from tight. I had a small bead of epoxy on both sides of the rail - upper and lower, and I had thickened epoxy between the two rail segments. I let it sit like this for one day, then I tried to tape over them to further reinforce the rails. First i tried some 6 inch wide 6ox biax tape but that failed miserably. I let the epoxy on the rails "cure" until it was really sticky then I tried to wrap the rail and it was not happening. It was impossible to get both the upper and lower faces covered with the tape without one side lifting off. I fiddled with an 8 inch length for maybe 10 minutes before deciding on a new plan. I used short lengths of biax tape for both ends of the rails so that it might spread out the load of the "springyness" a little better, there were still little lifted areas that I cut open later and filled with silica thickened epoxy. For the majority of the length of the rails I used 2 inch woven cloth tape on both the top side and bottom side, applied separately with the edges of the tape coming cloth together but not overlapping. For the outside angled edge there would be no tape on it, just multiple coatings of epoxy, then paint in the future. I was able to get the cloth tape to seat along the two inside edges very well and wet out. I think that once the whole thing cures it should be pretty much permanent. Once it cures in a couple of days I will sand the outside edge, feather the joints and tape and then look to install the rub rail.
So for the spray rail I installed it with the west system six10 thickened epoxy, I bedded the rails really well, roughed both the boat side and rail side, I applied pressure with the temporary screws until the epoxy started to bulge out and the rail was a little snug but far from tight. I had a small bead of epoxy on both sides of the rail - upper and lower, and I had thickened epoxy between the two rail segments. I let it sit like this for one day, then I tried to tape over them to further reinforce the rails. First i tried some 6 inch wide 6ox biax tape but that failed miserably. I let the epoxy on the rails "cure" until it was really sticky then I tried to wrap the rail and it was not happening. It was impossible to get both the upper and lower faces covered with the tape without one side lifting off. I fiddled with an 8 inch length for maybe 10 minutes before deciding on a new plan. I used short lengths of biax tape for both ends of the rails so that it might spread out the load of the "springyness" a little better, there were still little lifted areas that I cut open later and filled with silica thickened epoxy. For the majority of the length of the rails I used 2 inch woven cloth tape on both the top side and bottom side, applied separately with the edges of the tape coming cloth together but not overlapping. For the outside angled edge there would be no tape on it, just multiple coatings of epoxy, then paint in the future. I was able to get the cloth tape to seat along the two inside edges very well and wet out. I think that once the whole thing cures it should be pretty much permanent. Once it cures in a couple of days I will sand the outside edge, feather the joints and tape and then look to install the rub rail.
Re: Another FS17 Build Thread
I went and got some 2 1/2 inch 1/4 inch strips to use for the rub rail, so I went to install them and there is a bit of a contour toward the bow that requires the strips to be be bent in an awkward way, I think that this is why the directions call for the 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inch strips. I should have seen that in the directions before i went to the store.
So I started on the keel. I got a 2x2 which measures out a bit smaller. I tapered the leading edge both the sides and the top and I tapered the back edge like that as well. I spread epoxy on the hull and on the bottom edge of the wood, waited an hour, then bedded it in a generous coating of silica thickened epoxy. I waited another 2 hours then made a nice bead with some more thickened epoxy and covered the keel with 12 oz biax. I placed 2 6 oz biax strips on the leading edge as well in addition ot the 12 oz. I do have some bubbles that formed and after spending an hour popping them with a brush I got bored and decided to let it just sit. Tomorrow I will either fill the bubbles or sand them out and recover again.
Most of the white stuff in the pictures is the thickened epoxy behind the biax, but there is a fair amount of bubbles.
So I started on the keel. I got a 2x2 which measures out a bit smaller. I tapered the leading edge both the sides and the top and I tapered the back edge like that as well. I spread epoxy on the hull and on the bottom edge of the wood, waited an hour, then bedded it in a generous coating of silica thickened epoxy. I waited another 2 hours then made a nice bead with some more thickened epoxy and covered the keel with 12 oz biax. I placed 2 6 oz biax strips on the leading edge as well in addition ot the 12 oz. I do have some bubbles that formed and after spending an hour popping them with a brush I got bored and decided to let it just sit. Tomorrow I will either fill the bubbles or sand them out and recover again.
Most of the white stuff in the pictures is the thickened epoxy behind the biax, but there is a fair amount of bubbles.
Re: Another FS17 Build Thread
Your photos don't focus on the bubbles, but don't sweat a few small bubbles on this part- it's not critical like a hull panel would be.
Hank
Re: Another FS17 Build Thread
It was interesting, I drilled the small holes and injected the bubbles with epoxy, it setup, and it looks good. Next time I will use a loose thickened mix, I think that will maybe be a little better, there was a little bit of leakage.
Re: Another FS17 Build Thread
The leading edge still had a bubble in it, right in the middle. So I drilled it again and injected it again and it seems to have worked. I scrapped some thickened epoxy along the length of the keel to smooth out the cloth weave
When covering the edge of the keel it is interesting how the edges (sides) build up slightly thicker than the center. When I was spreading the thickened epoxy down the top of the keep there was a little pool that shows right down the center.
I started the rub rail again. Initially i purchased some 2 1/2 inch battons and tried to use them. The have enough bend in them, but at the bow then must both bend and twist a little, the wide battons were two rigid in the twisty direction. I then re-read the directions and said to use 1 1/2 inch battons. Now I know why. So I got some of the skinnier battons and they bend and twist so now we are on.
The picture shows the two holes just above the air bubble (now you cannot see the bubble) and there are a few globs of epoxy just above that.When covering the edge of the keel it is interesting how the edges (sides) build up slightly thicker than the center. When I was spreading the thickened epoxy down the top of the keep there was a little pool that shows right down the center.
I started the rub rail again. Initially i purchased some 2 1/2 inch battons and tried to use them. The have enough bend in them, but at the bow then must both bend and twist a little, the wide battons were two rigid in the twisty direction. I then re-read the directions and said to use 1 1/2 inch battons. Now I know why. So I got some of the skinnier battons and they bend and twist so now we are on.
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Re: Another FS17 Build Thread
For hull bottom; drill two holes and inject the lower hole; then cover with masking tape to reduce leaks.
Re: Another FS17 Build Thread
The last layer for the rub rail is now on. While the boat is upside down I think I will round the lower edge of the rail and add a fillet so that I can wrap the outside edge with tape to tie the whole structure together.
All of the layers came together pretty well. The original 2 1/2 inch battens just would not form to the hull, but the 1 1/2 inch battens readily form as long as I put the occasional locating pin in to keep the battens from slipping.
All of the layers came together pretty well. The original 2 1/2 inch battens just would not form to the hull, but the 1 1/2 inch battens readily form as long as I put the occasional locating pin in to keep the battens from slipping.
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