Sole/deck support

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rbecker08
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Sole/deck support

Post by rbecker08 »

[progress][/progress]Odd question for getting deck supports/cleats on the stringers and frames it is pretty easy work. Against the hull we have to get a little more creative with the curves of the hull. Is there any reason we don’t cut half laps from the frames and run supports parallel to the stringers. End result is a little overhang but little more then a few inches. Just curious….
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Imagine the piece sitting high cut flush (the one on the left top picture) to the other supports and the area where my hand is void/foam.

rbecker08
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Re: Sole/deck support

Post by rbecker08 »

I think I just answered it…that span would be unsupported other then the ends. Could sit thicker beam or tie it to the hull in a few places. But still curious what you all think.

Dan_Smullen
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Re: Sole/deck support

Post by Dan_Smullen »

Fair question. The purist in me believes the cleats should be tight against the hull side, but the realist in me believes that as long as the sole is filleted and tabbed to the inside of the hull, there is no detriment in an unsupported gap of a few inches.

PS. Bad place for a target.

rbecker08
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Re: Sole/deck support

Post by rbecker08 »

So I will probably do this unless someone talks me out of it real quick. A couple minutes with a chisel and we could have this in. On the deck I’ll probably use 6 in covered by 14 in wide 12 oz tape to secure it to the hull. I have cut out some angled pieces that fit the hull well but question my ability to get them securely adhered and in the correct plane. Targets are good there I am a horrible shot lol.

Dan_Smullen
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Re: Sole/deck support

Post by Dan_Smullen »

rbecker08 wrote: Mon Mar 28, 2022 5:46 pm Targets are good there I am a horrible shot lol.
Got it!

Is it the curvature of the hull that you’ll have to overcome, or the notching?

I wouldn’t want to give up fore and aft support, so notch what you have to, but it shouldn’t have to be tight to the hull. A wood flour fillet should be used too.

With the 12oz tape, I think the widest should go on first, then the 6”, but others could correct me.

OneWayTraffic
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Re: Sole/deck support

Post by OneWayTraffic »

I used a cleat against the hull edge in the middle of each section between frames. There was at least a foot either side, where the hull panel was floating. Then I glued it in with a fillet and taped over. Then the whole sole was glassed with biaxial on top. It's solid.

More importantly I think it's best to fully epoxy coat the cleats before installation, especially underneath. Yours look a little dry or is it just the photos?

rbecker08
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Re: Sole/deck support

Post by rbecker08 »

So got the first one in, or at least cut to fit. Next we will grind a bit more space for glue and have at it. Took 10 min and really helped me keep everything in the same plane.
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Yesyoucan4
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Re: Sole/deck support

Post by Yesyoucan4 »

What species of wood and dimensions

OneWayTraffic
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Re: Sole/deck support

Post by OneWayTraffic »

It's on the plans. Any available dry wood will work. Must be epoxy coated all around, usually 25mm (1") dimensions. I don't think the dimensions are super critical, nor is whether you cleat everything or just the stringers and frames. The designers had a few things to say if you search his posts.

Primary used to provide a support from under where you can't tape, and ensure the glue doesn't run out of the joint before it sets up.

I discovered that 3M VHB tape is great for sticking cleats to the hull while we wait for the epoxy to set. Epoxy coat the cleat all round. Let cureand slightly sand. Two+ small patches of tape per cleat and apply epoxy glue everywhere else. Press to hull with hand pressure and it will stay put until the epoxy cures.

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