Hey guys,
When doing the last set of puzzle joints, I think I used a slightly smaller amount of hardener than I was supposed to and after about 1 week of curing, I am not sure if it is hard enough to continue with…
It is def hard but if I press hard enough into it, I can leave a finger nail impression. It is not soft by any means but is not super hard like the other panels when cured. For areas that it was set against the plastic and then pulled back, it will bend and not break…No issues with it binding to the wood.
What are y’all’s recs? Should I ordered a new side panel (3 pieces) cut? Or should the fillet harden more over time and maybe use a fiberglass splice to firm up the joint? Any help appreciated, thanks!
Ez-Fillet hard enough on puzzle joints? (LM 18)
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Re: Ez-Fillet hard enough on puzzle joints? (LM 18)
Warm it with a hair dryer and see if you can scrape it off.
- glossieblack
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Re: Ez-Fillet hard enough on puzzle joints? (LM 18)
I agree with Fallguy. Step 1, use the heat of a hair dryer and scrape off surface glue. Step 2, heat and gradually push he puzzle joint apart.
Currently building Jacques Mertens ST21 "Skinnydip". Boating adventures: Splash testing and using 'Skinnydip, as a basis of further building refinement; Adams 44’ sailing sloop "Great Sandy" (cruising and maintaining); Iain Oughtred Feather Pram "Mini Dip" (building); Jacques Mertens R13 "Wood Duck" (built and due for maintenance).
Re: Ez-Fillet hard enough on puzzle joints? (LM 18)
Thanks both
Are you saying to heat up the fillet and try to separate the puzzle joint completely?
Are you saying to heat up the fillet and try to separate the puzzle joint completely?
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Re: Ez-Fillet hard enough on puzzle joints? (LM 18)
Yes. You can try using a chisel with care in not to gouge much. It is a painful process with bits of gummy crap building on the chisel. So, you use a chisel and a trowel to clean the chisel off, etc.
Lotsa variables, but removing errors is important.
- glossieblack
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Re: Ez-Fillet hard enough on puzzle joints? (LM 18)
Yes. Once the only glue remaining is in the puzzle joint itself, place an approx. 4" packer under one side of the joint, then apply heat to both the top and underside of the joint while pushing down on the unsupported side.
Currently building Jacques Mertens ST21 "Skinnydip". Boating adventures: Splash testing and using 'Skinnydip, as a basis of further building refinement; Adams 44’ sailing sloop "Great Sandy" (cruising and maintaining); Iain Oughtred Feather Pram "Mini Dip" (building); Jacques Mertens R13 "Wood Duck" (built and due for maintenance).
Re: Ez-Fillet hard enough on puzzle joints? (LM 18)
It seems like fiberglass tape over both sides would be strong enough, but we boat builders tend to rely on tradition and the hull is not a place to take chances on. Heat will soften the epoxy enough to get it loose, ideally you'd stick it in an oven to get it all hot at once, but you should be able to work across the panels with a heat gun.
Hank
Re: Ez-Fillet hard enough on puzzle joints? (LM 18)
Since it's been a week this is probably a long shot, but it may be worth it to set in in full sun on for a few days if you haven't. Maybe it will harden up a bit more.
Dougster
Dougster
Re: Ez-Fillet hard enough on puzzle joints? (LM 18)
Thanks everyone for the advice. Seems the consensus is to heat it up with a heat gun and scrape off.
This stuff is about 80-85% as hard as the other joints that cured properly. Everyone think a heat gun will soften up the fillet enough? Any others concerns? If not, I’ll start this tomorrow and hopefully have it re-glued shortly. Will update on the progress
This stuff is about 80-85% as hard as the other joints that cured properly. Everyone think a heat gun will soften up the fillet enough? Any others concerns? If not, I’ll start this tomorrow and hopefully have it re-glued shortly. Will update on the progress
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- * Bateau Builder - Expert *
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Re: Ez-Fillet hard enough on puzzle joints? (LM 18)
Why is there so much excess on the joint? Use a 3-4" steel trowel to keep those cleaner..
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