dennisb I ran your DE27.5 through my calculator for both the 115HP and the 150 HP since you scaled it up at 27.5' you will be much happier with the 150HP motor as Jacques recommended.
Tom
DE 27.5
Re: DE 27.5
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
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Re: DE 27.5
If you use the DE29 as a base line or low end power range , Pat4 posted 21mph , 90 evinrude / 15 prop / 4800 rpm fully loaded 6 persons .
Re: DE 27.5
All, thanks again for the input.
I after reviewing the comments on glassing the boat, I think I am going with 3 layers of 12oz on the bottom. My concern with the 1708 is the thickness and amount of resin required to wet it out. I have done a fair amount of fiberglass work, but never anything that thick. I do not want to have any dry spots in the hull.
If the weather holds, by the end of this weekend I should have the temporary frames completed with the bottom and side panels attached.
Dennis
I after reviewing the comments on glassing the boat, I think I am going with 3 layers of 12oz on the bottom. My concern with the 1708 is the thickness and amount of resin required to wet it out. I have done a fair amount of fiberglass work, but never anything that thick. I do not want to have any dry spots in the hull.
If the weather holds, by the end of this weekend I should have the temporary frames completed with the bottom and side panels attached.
Dennis
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Re: DE 27.5
I think you will be much happier working with the 12oz than you would be with 1708. 1708 has its place but it can be a pain to get wet out well. Also going with more layers lets you offset the glass joints and that removes one headache. Not having the plans I do not know how much glass is called for but you need to use at least the total thickness the designer calls for.
Re: DE 27.5
Yes, thank you Fuzz.
The 12 oz. is easier to wet out and will absorb less resin. My first choice was 3 layers of 12 oz.
I don't know where the 4 layers came from, maybe about someone who mentioned a larger engine or a larger scaled boat.
The 12 oz. is easier to wet out and will absorb less resin. My first choice was 3 layers of 12 oz.
I don't know where the 4 layers came from, maybe about someone who mentioned a larger engine or a larger scaled boat.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com
http://boatbuildercentral.com
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Re: DE 27.5
I'm not a fan of running all the tows the same way, but at least he has the amount of cloth right. And with plywood, this will be plenty stiff, so the tows are a non-issue versus foam.
Good luck Dennis. We are all very supportive here. It may not come across perfectly, but have questions and we'll work to get you an answer.
I was surprised when I started building at how artful boat building can be...but as you can see, even in a laminate schedule; some art is involved.
Happy Building-make sure to avoid concavity in the hull setup on the bottom. That is called hook and makes a boat perform poorly.
Good luck Dennis. We are all very supportive here. It may not come across perfectly, but have questions and we'll work to get you an answer.
I was surprised when I started building at how artful boat building can be...but as you can see, even in a laminate schedule; some art is involved.
Happy Building-make sure to avoid concavity in the hull setup on the bottom. That is called hook and makes a boat perform poorly.
Re: DE 27.5
Made progress today. Mounted bottom and side panels. Still need to pull them into position.
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Re: DE 27.5
Be careful of developing hook Dennis. This build would be easy to do it and it might be camera, but looks that way.
Very exciting to see you moving forward.
Hook is a low area. The boat needs to be flat along the keel. Use a string.
Often, when you pull the hullsides out in s&g; you can affect and create hook.
Very exciting to see you moving forward.
Hook is a low area. The boat needs to be flat along the keel. Use a string.
Often, when you pull the hullsides out in s&g; you can affect and create hook.
Re: DE 27.5
Fallguy,
I think it look that way because I have the stern tied down (last 4 frames and transom) and I am still working on the forward section.
Thanks for looking
Dennis
I think it look that way because I have the stern tied down (last 4 frames and transom) and I am still working on the forward section.
Thanks for looking
Dennis
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Re: DE 27.5
This is a common problem in stitch n glue construction that people often get wrong. They bend the side hull panels a bit to get them to fit better to the stations and the result is driven into the keel and hook robs the boat of performance. But it makes sense if the forward section is not tied why I assumed wrong.
Some builders get frustrated with early criticisms and leave the forum. Sure hope you stay. We are only looking out for you.
Your boat is massive, so starting off right is important.
The forum also helps for moments of paralysis or indecision. I've had more of those than I care to discuss. But many times people help with it. One thing I have to do this month is build bathroom doors. Aripeka Angler, aka Richard is a cabinet maker and he gave me a profile for the door jambs I am going to cut this month.
I'm a little surprised to see you not building on a level strongback. Not to say it can't be done, but shooting the waterlines for bottom paint will be tricky. Unless you just put it outside or something.
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