Southeast Alaska boat build
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Re: Southeast Alaska boat build
If you look at the picture of the boat you posted you will see the low elevation of the ramp is near the forward point of the boats waterline . That would have to be the case on the 23 , you would be bow down and stern up when loading or unloading a 4 wheeler if not . You would have to push a cabin to the stern to get your load behind the forward water line , not even factoring in balance of the boat . If you have not ran a river with a trailer rig air compressor in a flat bottom 24' Carolina Skiff you might not understand what I'm trying to say , and I might not be explaining it very well . You might be able to do what you want to do with the 27 ' with a longer water line . I think the low point of the ramp would have to be close to the forward water line point , I would also think the weight of your 4 wheeler and balance would dictate how much of a cabin you could have and cabin location . If your not running the boat with your 4 wheeler loaded on you will have to have some way to balance the boat , if designed to carry the 4 wheeler .
Re: Southeast Alaska boat build
Carrying a 4 wheeler would probably be more the exception than the rule, but I would like the ability to do so. I imagine there will have to be some compromises to accommodate the balancing issue both full and empty. Having a motor bracket on the back should allow me to move the cabin farther to the stern.
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Re: Southeast Alaska boat build
I wrote a long reply and somehow lost it
I would have at least four stringers in the hull to help keep the deck stiff. Most 4-wheelers are not that heavy #500-#700 lbs. Heck that is no more than two of my fishing buddies 1/2 inch plywood with some glass on both sides should do the job. If you do build the boat the designer could answer a lot of these questions. As for a bracket there are both up and down sides to having one. You are not building a speed boat so the biggest gain would be in deck space. In that case making the hull a little longer would do even more for you. IMHO
I would have at least four stringers in the hull to help keep the deck stiff. Most 4-wheelers are not that heavy #500-#700 lbs. Heck that is no more than two of my fishing buddies 1/2 inch plywood with some glass on both sides should do the job. If you do build the boat the designer could answer a lot of these questions. As for a bracket there are both up and down sides to having one. You are not building a speed boat so the biggest gain would be in deck space. In that case making the hull a little longer would do even more for you. IMHO
Re: Southeast Alaska boat build
Thanks. When I get ready to pull the trigger on the build I will definitely talk things over with the designer just to make sure I'm not asking the boat to do something it isn't designed for.
- BarraMan
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Re: Southeast Alaska boat build
I say - "just do it"!
I know nothing about boat design - well not much anyway - but I have built one based on a JM hull design which I modified to suit may purposes.
The HB hull would appear to be the one to go with.
Don't skimp on power! Power overcomes many issues if you are prepared to pay for the initial cost and the gas!
I think I could put a 4 wheeler on the front deck of my boat and it wouldn't care. I once ran 20 miles down a river at 25 kts with full gas (120 US gal), 7 blokes and a large generator on the front deck that I am sure weighed more then a 4 wheeler. Can't say I noticed much difference in the boat apart from the need for more rpm with resultant fuel flow.
I think one of the most satisfying things about building your own boat is the ability to do your own thing and produce a 'one off'!
Think x 3 - build x 1!
My advice is worth what you pay for it!
I know nothing about boat design - well not much anyway - but I have built one based on a JM hull design which I modified to suit may purposes.
The HB hull would appear to be the one to go with.
Don't skimp on power! Power overcomes many issues if you are prepared to pay for the initial cost and the gas!
I think I could put a 4 wheeler on the front deck of my boat and it wouldn't care. I once ran 20 miles down a river at 25 kts with full gas (120 US gal), 7 blokes and a large generator on the front deck that I am sure weighed more then a 4 wheeler. Can't say I noticed much difference in the boat apart from the need for more rpm with resultant fuel flow.
I think one of the most satisfying things about building your own boat is the ability to do your own thing and produce a 'one off'!
Think x 3 - build x 1!
My advice is worth what you pay for it!
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Re: Southeast Alaska boat build
There are two hull versions for the GT23 , one designed for weight forward , one aft , LWL looks to be about 16' + , might be more on the hull designed for weight forward but I doubt there will be much more . GT27 has about 20'+ LWL , 845 ppi . , I think it would be much safer if you get into wind and chop while carrying a load .
Re: Southeast Alaska boat build
I think for a first build, I don't want to go much bigger than 23'. The description of the 27' says it isn't really recommended as a planing hull. I suspect often the load will consist of fishing buddies which are easier to move around than cargo .Everyone's insights are much appreciated.
Re: Southeast Alaska boat build
x2 I thought I had posted this before. There are three pilot house designs on here https://www.boatbuildercentral.com/Stud ... _STUDY.pdf These will give you at least some idea of what you can do, if you do not want to buy one of them.
Tom
Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
Re: Southeast Alaska boat build
x2 I thought I had posted this before. There are three pilot house designs on here https://www.boatbuildercentral.com/Stud ... _STUDY.pdf These will give you at least some idea of what you can do, if you do not want to buy one of them. I think what you are planning is good the standard plans calls for a light weight build of the cabin so taking it off and adding a pilot house should be no problem.
Tom
Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
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Re: Southeast Alaska boat build
In terms of grounding it's hard to beat UHMWPE. It's known to be hard to glue, but it can be done. I glued strips to my hull a year ago and they are still there; grab one and give it a pull and the whole boat rocks on its cradle.
There's more details on my C17 build thread, but in a nutshell you need to carefully treat the surface of the plastic. Clean with isopropyl alcohol or similar, sand it and then use a propane torch to flame treat it. Glue with WEST systems gflex. I used temporary screws to hold it while the glue set up tjhen filled the screw holes. If you are the belt and suspenders guy use bigger screws with washers all left in and set in holes completely filled with epoxy silica mix, essential to have no path from water to wood anywhere in the boat. If you want to be able to replace, you could use the glue treatment I suggest, then let cure and then screw and 3m4200 this to the runners.
UHMWPE is the recommended hull runners for beached Tolmans, though Renn recommended screw and 5200.
Some NZ jetboaters use sheets of UHMWPE 13mm thick bolted to the bottom of 5mm-10mm thick Aluminium for running shallow rivers. Unlikely that you will put more abuse on a boat than this.
https://youtu.be/LVr2Ptz4SvE
There's more details on my C17 build thread, but in a nutshell you need to carefully treat the surface of the plastic. Clean with isopropyl alcohol or similar, sand it and then use a propane torch to flame treat it. Glue with WEST systems gflex. I used temporary screws to hold it while the glue set up tjhen filled the screw holes. If you are the belt and suspenders guy use bigger screws with washers all left in and set in holes completely filled with epoxy silica mix, essential to have no path from water to wood anywhere in the boat. If you want to be able to replace, you could use the glue treatment I suggest, then let cure and then screw and 3m4200 this to the runners.
UHMWPE is the recommended hull runners for beached Tolmans, though Renn recommended screw and 5200.
Some NZ jetboaters use sheets of UHMWPE 13mm thick bolted to the bottom of 5mm-10mm thick Aluminium for running shallow rivers. Unlikely that you will put more abuse on a boat than this.
https://youtu.be/LVr2Ptz4SvE
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