OK...I ordered the SK14 CMC kit and have begun assembling it. I have gotten as far as I dare without asking questions.
Should I leave space between the transom and the rest of the boat like for the rest of the boat? How much pressure should I use to get the bow to come together? Seems like the answer is "quite a bit", but I don't want to mess it up. I am assuming I need to drill a few more holes in the bow...
NC SK14
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Re: NC SK14
The transom will fit inside the hull even with the sides and bottom. Yes, looks like some holes were left out for more ties at the bow. Call Jeff on Tuesday to get the spacing as they will get closer as you get near the front to take the pressure. Or maybe someone who has built one can help you if they see this.
Good luck, Tom
Good luck, Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
Re: NC SK14
Drill every few inches, you’ll fill them with epoxy putty anyway
Re: NC SK14
This is one I built a couple years ago stitched up.
Re: NC SK14
My old build of the SK 14 has pics. Search Another SK 14 to see, but Edd's pic is like mine. I'd put the transom in now (inside the hull, like Tom says) and use a screw or two to hold it in place. It does take some persuasion to get the nose to come together. Once it gets pretty close I let mine "rest" overnight, then cinched it up some more.
Dougster
Dougster
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Re: NC SK14
Thanks for the information, all. I took Tom's advice and gave Jeff a call and ended up talking with Reid. He was extremely helpful. Turns out, they did not leave holes out. They let the builder decide how many holes it takes to pull the bow together. He also gave me some great advice on stitching. I am going to undo the stiches and start again. Will post again once I get it put back together. BTW...I am still trying to figure out posting on the forum. Does anyone know why my picture uploaded sideways? I rotated it on my computer, but it still came up sideways. Is there a setting I am missing? Thanks!
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Re: NC SK14
So I took it all apart and started again. Dougster's build thread was very helpful. Put some additional holes in the bow section and it seems to have come together fairly well.
I think I need to go back and replace/loosen the two top zip ties so the wood isn't touching, but other than that, I am pretty happy with the way it came together.
I am a little worried that I don't have a ton of room to do spot welds in the bow. Here is what this mess looks like from the inside.
Hopefully going make sure the stringers and frames are a good fit and start spot welding soon. Any suggestions before I move forward?
I think I need to go back and replace/loosen the two top zip ties so the wood isn't touching, but other than that, I am pretty happy with the way it came together.
I am a little worried that I don't have a ton of room to do spot welds in the bow. Here is what this mess looks like from the inside.
Hopefully going make sure the stringers and frames are a good fit and start spot welding soon. Any suggestions before I move forward?
Re: NC SK14
Look good to me. Seems like plenty of room to spot weld. Make sure you put packing tape or some such behind the seam so the epoxy mix doesn't push through.
Dougster
Dougster
Re: NC SK14
I am a little concerned of that large gap at the very end of the hull peices. I do not know what it measures but it should not be more than a 1/4", it looks larger than that. You might need to loosen the sides and pull that tighter.. Just wondering?
Tom
Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
Re: NC SK14
I struggled with that area too, maybe got it to 3/8", which is fine. Fill it in with thickened epoxy, sand it smooth and it's rock solid.
Dougster
Dougster
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