I think my finishing protocol went something like:
Once finished glassing and fairing:
1) 4 x coats of epoxy sanded with 80 grit after the last coat
2) 2 coats of epoxy primer sanded with 120 grit after the 1st coat and 240 grit after the 2nd
3) 2 coats of 2 pack polyurethane undercoat sanded with 240 grit after the 1st coat and 400 grit after the 2nd
4) 2 coats of 2 pack polyurethane topcoat sanded with 600 grit between coats
Question regarding how to properly finish a hull
-
- * Bateau Builder *
- Posts: 1663
- Joined: Sat Jan 10, 2015 7:13 pm
- Location: New Zealand
Re: Question regarding how to properly finish a hull
Seems I got a few comments on the porch paint. I'm using some on mine, but not for exterior surfaces. Inside of compartments and other places that should not get exposed to sun or much abrasion. Regardless of the paint I think it's a good idea to store a boat under cover and out of the sun.
Re: Question regarding how to properly finish a hull
OneWayTraffic there are various grades of porch paints. I spent over $15 a quart for one that had a high abrasive content and a high gloss. I would not be afraid of using the right porch paint in my lockers.
Tom
Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
-
- * Bateau Builder - Expert *
- Posts: 8939
- Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2011 4:23 am
- Location: Kasilof, Alaska
Re: Question regarding how to properly finish a hull
So I take it this is not the best way to store a boatOneWayTraffic wrote: ↑Sat Jun 25, 2022 4:13 am Seems I got a few comments on the porch paint. I'm using some on mine, but not for exterior surfaces. Inside of compartments and other places that should not get exposed to sun or much abrasion. Regardless of the paint I think it's a good idea to store a boat under cover and out of the sun.
Re: Question regarding how to properly finish a hull
WOW that finish looks amazing. So far this looks like the best way to go. I am going to be keeping it in the water most of the time and the Sun in South Florida is Brutal. I'm going to try and stick with good quality paint for the interior spaces as well. I don't think interior latex paint is going to cut it.BarraMan wrote: ↑Sat Jun 25, 2022 1:41 am I think my finishing protocol went something like:
Once finished glassing and fairing:
1) 4 x coats of epoxy sanded with 80 grit after the last coat
2) 2 coats of epoxy primer sanded with 120 grit after the 1st coat and 240 grit after the 2nd
3) 2 coats of 2 pack polyurethane undercoat sanded with 240 grit after the 1st coat and 400 grit after the 2nd
4) 2 coats of 2 pack polyurethane topcoat sanded with 600 grit between coats
Check out my Trawler 28 build viewtopic.php?t=66261.
-
- * Bateau Builder *
- Posts: 1663
- Joined: Sat Jan 10, 2015 7:13 pm
- Location: New Zealand
Re: Question regarding how to properly finish a hull
Out of the sun, and under cover.Fuzz wrote: ↑Sun Jun 26, 2022 11:21 pmSo I take it this is not the best way to store a boatOneWayTraffic wrote: ↑Sat Jun 25, 2022 4:13 am Seems I got a few comments on the porch paint. I'm using some on mine, but not for exterior surfaces. Inside of compartments and other places that should not get exposed to sun or much abrasion. Regardless of the paint I think it's a good idea to store a boat under cover and out of the sun.
Looks good.
We're just off the shortest day here. I managed to get some glassing done outside. With slow hardener. 60F in the shade at the middle of the day. Nicer in the sun. Bit different to Alaska for sure.
-
- Active Poster
- Posts: 270
- Joined: Mon Aug 04, 2008 9:33 am
- Location: Virginia
- Location: Virginia
Re: Question regarding how to properly finish a hull
Update to my update. I ended up stripping all the paint. It would seem that the areas I stripped first were over fairing compound. I didn't remember fairing anything so I assumed it was cloudy epoxy. Turns out the epoxy under the paint was a nice golden tan.
What did fail me was the Home Depot plywood. Just because the glue in it is waterproof doesn't mean the type of wood used is good for wet use. The wood swelled and contracted a lot causing the epoxy to crack and let water in. That is where the failure is. I posted about this console and wood about 10 years ago noting that it sucked up much more epoxy than any okoume I used before. I glassed the console this time using a bunch of scrap cut offs from other projects. The only reason I bothered to save it is because it fits well and it has all the holes cut for my stuff.
Just use okoume or meranti and good epoxy to save yourself a lot of grief in the future.
What did fail me was the Home Depot plywood. Just because the glue in it is waterproof doesn't mean the type of wood used is good for wet use. The wood swelled and contracted a lot causing the epoxy to crack and let water in. That is where the failure is. I posted about this console and wood about 10 years ago noting that it sucked up much more epoxy than any okoume I used before. I glassed the console this time using a bunch of scrap cut offs from other projects. The only reason I bothered to save it is because it fits well and it has all the holes cut for my stuff.
Just use okoume or meranti and good epoxy to save yourself a lot of grief in the future.
-
- Active Poster
- Posts: 270
- Joined: Mon Aug 04, 2008 9:33 am
- Location: Virginia
- Location: Virginia
Re: Question regarding how to properly finish a hull
Agree. One post, one sentence, closed for comments.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 18 guests