Won’t be long before I’m ready to paint the bottom of my boat, so a couple of questions.
1. I plan to use graphite on the very bottom an up 4” or so on the sides. My understanding is that it would not need further paint on top of that for protection. Correct?
2. I plan to occasionally have this boat in the (fresh)water 3-10 days so I need a real immersion-safe paint. That said, I don’t have the patience, skill or inclination to make the substrate look good enough to bother with high end paint. So what’s an economical but good paint for me to use? I’m not trying not to spend money if I need to. Just don’t want to pay for a yacht finish that won’t exist. So if high end is what it takes, I’ll spend the money.
I guess the short version is, I want to make sure I spend the money to get the performance, but don’t want to waste extra money for looks.
I’ve read lots of threads, but can’t decide if I’ve found this answer.
Thanks.
Jbo
“Good Enough” Bottom Paint
- cape man
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Re: “Good Enough” Bottom Paint
If the graphite is below the waterline it will be fine in the water for a week or more. I used cheap paint the first time and 9 years later regretted it as I had to sand it down and repaint. Much worse than painting the first time right! My finish is not yacht finish, but I'm counting on the EMC Quantum I used for the repaint to hold up for ALONG time.
The world always seems brighter when you've just made something that wasn't there before - Neil Gaiman
Re: “Good Enough” Bottom Paint
Sadly, just realized I’ve posted essentially this same question before. How sad is it that I not only didn’t find it when I looked, but that I didn’t remember already covering it?
SMH
Jbo
SMH
Jbo
Re: “Good Enough” Bottom Paint
Perhaps this is asking a lot, but how about a chart comparing life/durability, ease of application and looks of the topside paints offered here on BBC?
I can’t decide which I should use.
Jbo
I can’t decide which I should use.
Jbo
Re: “Good Enough” Bottom Paint
This will be rolled or roll and tip.
Jbo
Jbo
Re: “Good Enough” Bottom Paint
jbo I would look at Awlgriip if I were you. While Quantum is great it says it needs a clear coat over the base coat if rolled adding to the expense. Awlgrip is an excellent and well-known product. I would also call and talk to Jeff as he has the dope on these products and can probably get you color charts.
Tom
Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
- Jaysen
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Re: “Good Enough” Bottom Paint
Where does it say that? I never clear coated mine and it is holding up with no issues.
Use the rolling reducer and proper thinner quantities and it doesn’t need tipping.
The only problem I have with it is my crappy prep. If you don’t have a clean surface it will peel. So will every other paint. In my opinion EMC is the the marginal cost increase for the simplicity it seems to have for roller application compared to other products.
Re: “Good Enough” Bottom Paint
Tom,TomW1 wrote: ↑Mon Jul 18, 2022 11:09 am jbo I would look at Awlgriip if I were you. While Quantum is great it says it needs a clear coat over the base coat if rolled adding to the expense. Awlgrip is an excellent and well-known product. I would also call and talk to Jeff as he has the dope on these products and can probably get you color charts.
Tom
Just want to clarify one thing as it pertains to the Quantum 99 paint by EMC. If you are spraying Quantum 99 Topcoat, there is no clear coat required for any colors. If you are rolling/brushing/tipping then there are a few colors that require a clear coat, these are some of the dark colors. If you are on our website there is actually a note at the bottom of the Quantum 99 page that states this and the colors are marked with 2 stars denoting this requirement.
To add to this discussion, I recommend the Quantum 99 over the Awlgrip due to the ability to wet sand and buff the Quantum after 36 hours. The Quantum 99 is repairable whereas the Awlgrip is not. Awlcraft 2000 (acrylic urethane) is repairable but not the Awlgrip Polyurethane. Lastly, EMC is a smaller company based out of South Carolina. They are amazing to work with and are just a phone call away when it comes to technical support during the paint process. Good luck getting someone on the phone from Awlgrip.
Certainly did not mean to step on any toes, just wanted to make sure everyone has accurate information.
Best of luck,
Reid
Someone asked me, if I were stranded on a desert island what book would I bring... "How to Build a Boat."
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- Steven Wright
Re: “Good Enough” Bottom Paint
A) what’s the coverage for the “genius kit”.
B). It says not below the water line, but what about at the water line? Or maybe more what’s the safe zone above the water line to make sure I don’t have issues?
Thanks
Jbo
B). It says not below the water line, but what about at the water line? Or maybe more what’s the safe zone above the water line to make sure I don’t have issues?
Thanks
Jbo
Re: “Good Enough” Bottom Paint
Jbo,
Here is a snap shot from the Quantum 99 Topcoat TDS The full TDS is also available on our website at the main Quantum page.
A polyurethane topcoat can be used on the entire hull surface (above or below) as long as the paint is not submerged or in the water continuously for more than 5-7 days or so. I would say that the majority of our builders use a polyurethane topcoat on the hulls of their skiffs. Obviously, a hull that is going to be kept in the water needs a paint for use below the waterline.
-Reid
Someone asked me, if I were stranded on a desert island what book would I bring... "How to Build a Boat."
- Steven Wright
- Steven Wright
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