Hello all,
If this was addressed previously then I apologize but I didn't see anything so figured I'd ask. I'm about to drill the holes for my hatch lid hinges and I was wondering, what is better a screw or a rivet? I've had a few boats and notice that in some cases there are screws and sometimes rivets. Anyone have a reason behind it? preference?
Thanks,
Bill
Hinge mounting: screws or rivets
-
- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 102
- Joined: Fri Mar 27, 2020 12:23 pm
- Location: Crawfordville, FL
Hinge mounting: screws or rivets
Boats restored: 1973 Glastron CV16, 1990 Proline 17 CC, 1993 Bass Boat
Boats built: custom 15ft flat bottom skiff, Soon-to-be-built TX18 (originally dborecky's build)
Boats built: custom 15ft flat bottom skiff, Soon-to-be-built TX18 (originally dborecky's build)
- Jaysen
- * Bateau Builder *
- Posts: 6520
- Joined: Wed Aug 05, 2015 7:59 am
- Location: St Helena Island, SC
- Contact:
Re: Hinge mounting: screws or rivets
Never "rivets".
In my opinion a countersunk Phillips bolt with a washer and nylock nut on the back is best. If you can't get access to the backside, then use a screw with the same head. in boat cases over drill, fill and drill proper hole for the metal. Seal with some 4200 if you think you will removing often or 5200 if you will sell the boat before you consider removing the hinge.
My preference for the bolts stems from needing to removed so many screws that get over-tightened. That results in needing to do a lot more repair than would be needed if you just spend a few $$ more on bolts. Also, when the hinge does start to feel loose (as it inevitably will), you can tighten a bolt with little fear of breaking the wood sealing layer.
Yes, I've had some bad experiences with hatches recently.
In my opinion a countersunk Phillips bolt with a washer and nylock nut on the back is best. If you can't get access to the backside, then use a screw with the same head. in boat cases over drill, fill and drill proper hole for the metal. Seal with some 4200 if you think you will removing often or 5200 if you will sell the boat before you consider removing the hinge.
My preference for the bolts stems from needing to removed so many screws that get over-tightened. That results in needing to do a lot more repair than would be needed if you just spend a few $$ more on bolts. Also, when the hinge does start to feel loose (as it inevitably will), you can tighten a bolt with little fear of breaking the wood sealing layer.
Yes, I've had some bad experiences with hatches recently.
-
- * Bateau Builder - Expert *
- Posts: 10205
- Joined: Tue Jan 12, 2010 12:25 am
Re: Hinge mounting: screws or rivets
Hard to argue with Jaysen.
The only shortcut you can take is screws first, followed by the inevitable bolts.
Rivets are a cheap, speed method that fails faster than screws.
The only shortcut you can take is screws first, followed by the inevitable bolts.
Rivets are a cheap, speed method that fails faster than screws.
-
- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 102
- Joined: Fri Mar 27, 2020 12:23 pm
- Location: Crawfordville, FL
Re: Hinge mounting: screws or rivets
Thanks y'all, the screws that came with the hinges are too short so i've got to buy something anyway. I've never liked rivets so it's an easy choice then.
Boats restored: 1973 Glastron CV16, 1990 Proline 17 CC, 1993 Bass Boat
Boats built: custom 15ft flat bottom skiff, Soon-to-be-built TX18 (originally dborecky's build)
Boats built: custom 15ft flat bottom skiff, Soon-to-be-built TX18 (originally dborecky's build)
-
- * Bateau Builder - Expert *
- Posts: 10205
- Joined: Tue Jan 12, 2010 12:25 am
Re: Hinge mounting: screws or rivets
I buy all my marine hardware from mcmaster carr in 316ss for saltwater.
For freshwater, local hardware is fine.
For freshwater, local hardware is fine.
-
- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 102
- Joined: Fri Mar 27, 2020 12:23 pm
- Location: Crawfordville, FL
Re: Hinge mounting: screws or rivets
I have never seen this site, thanks for that!fallguy1000 wrote: ↑Tue Aug 02, 2022 11:31 am I buy all my marine hardware from mcmaster carr in 316ss for saltwater.
For freshwater, local hardware is fine.
Boats restored: 1973 Glastron CV16, 1990 Proline 17 CC, 1993 Bass Boat
Boats built: custom 15ft flat bottom skiff, Soon-to-be-built TX18 (originally dborecky's build)
Boats built: custom 15ft flat bottom skiff, Soon-to-be-built TX18 (originally dborecky's build)
- OrangeQuest
- Very Active Poster
- Posts: 3948
- Joined: Tue Aug 28, 2018 1:14 pm
- Location: Houston, Texas
Re: Hinge mounting: screws or rivets
Bad thing about using stainless steel bolts, is you should also use anti-siege/anti-galling lubricate of some kind. Even thread-lock of the correct type will keep the bolts from galling and don't use power tools on them.
Bolt depot is also a very good source of 316 SS hardware.
Bolt depot is also a very good source of 316 SS hardware.
"that it isn't just an ordinary sort of boat. Sometimes it's a Boat, and sometimes it's more of an Accident. It all depends." "Depends on what?" "On whether I'm on the top of it or underneath it."
A. A. Milne
A. A. Milne
-
- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 102
- Joined: Fri Mar 27, 2020 12:23 pm
- Location: Crawfordville, FL
Re: Hinge mounting: screws or rivets
I do have some anti-seize that I use. I think i'm going to go with screws to begin with to get this thing on the water and I can get bolts later. I'm not even sure I'll like the hatches I madeOrangeQuest wrote: ↑Tue Aug 02, 2022 2:29 pm Bad thing about using stainless steel bolts, is you should also use anti-siege/anti-galling lubricate of some kind. Even thread-lock of the correct type will keep the bolts from galling and don't use power tools on them.
Bolt depot is also a very good source of 316 SS hardware.
Boats restored: 1973 Glastron CV16, 1990 Proline 17 CC, 1993 Bass Boat
Boats built: custom 15ft flat bottom skiff, Soon-to-be-built TX18 (originally dborecky's build)
Boats built: custom 15ft flat bottom skiff, Soon-to-be-built TX18 (originally dborecky's build)
- OrangeQuest
- Very Active Poster
- Posts: 3948
- Joined: Tue Aug 28, 2018 1:14 pm
- Location: Houston, Texas
Re: Hinge mounting: screws or rivets
I try to avoid Phillips or slotted drive bolts/screws. I prefer getting torx or square drive if they are countersunk. Do not have to worry about slipping or stripping out the head as much. You also can get in tighter places to put more torque on the bolt without having to push the drive into the bolt. Some of my conduit covers are in tight places and all the cover screws were replaced with 316 square drive screws. Which years of turning bolts, you get a feel as to how much things need to be tightened.In my opinion a countersunk Phillips bolt with a washer and nylock nut on the back is best.
I would recommend over drilling the holes and refilling with epoxy blend so if you change out the screws later. You just need to drill the holes out for bolts and would not need to repaint.
"that it isn't just an ordinary sort of boat. Sometimes it's a Boat, and sometimes it's more of an Accident. It all depends." "Depends on what?" "On whether I'm on the top of it or underneath it."
A. A. Milne
A. A. Milne
- Jaysen
- * Bateau Builder *
- Posts: 6520
- Joined: Wed Aug 05, 2015 7:59 am
- Location: St Helena Island, SC
- Contact:
Re: Hinge mounting: screws or rivets
OQ is not wrong. The torx or square are better. I’ve not found them for small diameter counter sunk bolts. You also need to be careful of over tightening if using screws.OrangeQuest wrote: ↑Tue Aug 02, 2022 7:40 pmI try to avoid Phillips or slotted drive bolts/screws. I prefer getting torx or square drive if they are countersunk.In my opinion a countersunk Phillips bolt with a washer and nylock nut on the back is best.
One reason I’ve not really tried to find them is that everyone has a Philips screwdriver. I personally try to reduce the number of tools I cary onboard. As a general rule, I try to carry the tool for every fastener (habit from old cars, jeeps and fixing sail boats during races). I probably need to reconsider this habit.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 18 guests