1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Questions about boat repairs with our resins and fiberglass: hull patches, transoms and stringers, foam, rot etc.
FlounderPounder
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1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by FlounderPounder »

Hello all,

My name is Matt, and I live in NJ. I’m brand new to this site and joined because I plan on rebuilding my transom on my ‘84 GW Overnighter this fall. This is a first for me. I’m quite handy with most things mechanical but have very limited experience with fiberglass and boats in general. My fiberglass experience ends with some surfboard repairs here and there. My biggest flaw/problem with this project is going to be my OCD for perfection. I know that probably doesn’t sound like much of a flaw, but I know myself and I know I’m going to make this a lot harder than it needs to be because I think everything has to “look” perfect. Obviously, I want the finished product to look perfect, but only need the visible parts to look perfect.

Anyway, I have an ‘84 GW Overnighter with a older 150hp 2 stroke Evinrude VRO. The transom isn’t completely gone, but it’s definitely on the weak side. I want to rebuild it to have no problem handling the current motor and, when the time comes to repower, I’d like it be able to handle anything between 150hp-200hp 4 stroke, or a 175-225 2 stroke. So, most likely will be adding a few hundred pounds when I repower (probably will do that in 1-3 years).

I know I need to upload a lot of pictures, and will do that in the coming days. My first question is figuring out where to cut open the boat to access the transom. I read through the “example” transom posted on the site of the ‘84 GW Seafarer. My boat is extremely similar to that, but very different at the same time…at least as far as where to make my access cut. I know there isn’t much insight that can be offered prior to me posting some pictures, so I will get on that ASAP…probably tomorrow. And I apologize if this is a complete “newbie” question, but I know I’m going to have to cut up over the top of the rails…my question is; underneath the bump rail, does the top half of the boat separate from the hull there, or is it possible that’s glassed over completely? Just trying to figure out how much I’m actually going to have to cut. If that question can’t be answered without pics…then I’ll come back to it another day.

Also, can anyone offer any type of cost estimate associated with this rebuild? I should have ALL the tools I need, and then some…so that won’t be any issues. I’m just trying to figure out what kind of costs I’m looking at for materials…ALL of the materials; wood for the transom, glass sheets, resin, hardener, top coat paint, gel coat, and anything else I’m most likely forgetting about or don’t know about. My best guess is that it’s going to be in the $600-800 range. Hopefully no more than $1000. I plan on purchasing all the materials from “boat builders”. I don’t know the exact thickness of the current transom yet, as I don’t have anything torn apart yet. Plan on making one last trip in the coming weeks and then starting the tear down in the beginning of September. The current complete transom is just over 2” thick (that is how it sits in the boat now…meaning both sides of glass and the wood core. So, my best guess would be that the transom core is between 1 1/4” - 1 1/2” thick. Looking at the cost of things, it seems like the wood core is where the bulk of the money is going to be spent. I’m going to need full 4’x8’ sheets for each layer of wood with the size of my beam…and I assume any work that needs to be done to repair the stringers (or at least replace the last foot), I can use the scrap pieces from the transom when I cut out the center?

Is there anything that I need to order prior to the initial tear down? Or is it best to open it up, see what’s going on, then go from there? Ideally, I would prefer to make a single purchase and get ALL required materials to save on shipping costs.

I GREATLY appreciate any help, tips, tricks, advice that anyone and everyone is willing to lend me. As I mentioned, this is my first go at a project like this…but I’m not in a rush to get it done. If I don’t finish it before the temp drops too much, I have no problem finishing it up in the Spring time.

I will be sure to get a bunch of picture uploaded tomorrow so everyone can see what I have to work with. I assume you only need pictures of the stern area? Pics of the transom (front and back), and pics of the entire stern area from different angles, some with access panels removed, some with them still in? Anything I might be missing? Or should that be enough?

Again, I don’t expect any advice prior to the pics going up as you can’t see what I’m working with. But if someone can give me a ballpark of the cost of materials, I’d appreciate that! Thanks again for everyone’s help, and I look forward to tackling (no pun intended) this project with all your help!!

Fuzz
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by Fuzz »

A rough rule is one inch per hundred horse power for the transom. You might end up putting more power on it over time so I would go at least 2 inch for the plywood core plus the glass. $800-1000 for materials does not sound too far off. That is provided you do not run into a lot of other problems. You will know a lot more after you get her opened up. Some times things are good and other times you just want to haul them to the dump :help: The good news is what you want to do is pretty simple. The bad news is will involve a lot of plain old nasty work.

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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by FlounderPounder »

Ok, so I pulled the cover forward and snapped a bunch of pics this morning. Again, I don’t plan on starting this for about 2-3 weeks, but I want to be as prepared as possible. I plan on taking the boat out one last time before the end of the summer, then will take the motor off and start “tearing” into it once my son starts school in September.

What I really wanna figure out over the next 2-3 weeks is exactly where to cut the top open?? I’m going to attach a bunch of pics to this post (assuming I can figure that out), and I would love any suggestions you guys all have with where to make the cut. After looking at it quite a bit this morning, I’m thinking the best spot to cut may be across the floor, towards the last 6 inches of the fuel hatch, maybe right around where the small access panel is on the fuel hatch? That would be about 6-8” from where the walls start to go up. It seems to me that would be the easiest spot to make the repairs once the transom is replaced. But, this is my first time, so if that’s too far back, or if there’s a much more obvious place that would be easier to repair and allow ample room to do the transom, please let me know. I am 100% open to suggestions, criticism, etc. Born and raised in NJ, so I don’t offend easily…haha.

@Fuzz; Thanks for the tip about the 1” of transom per 100hp. So, with that, I’m going to plan on going with 2”. I don’t see myself putting more than 200hp on her. Currently, I have an old 1989 Evinrude 150 VRO, and that’s gets her going 32-33 knots (GPS speed) at WOT. I don’t really have much need to go much faster than that. In fact, I’d rather stay around 150-175 and upgrade to a 4 stroke rather than going to 200 and staying with a 2 stroke.

Thinking about changing the motor down the line, I guess NOW would be the time to decide on the shaft length? I have to double check, but I believe my current motor has a 20” shaft. Is it possible to build the new transom to a height that’s in between a 20” and a 25” shaft? That way I can continue to use my current motor, then when I repower, I can look at 20” and 25” shaft motors. It would only be a 2 1/2” difference on either side. I don’t know too much about the effects of that, but is something like that feasible?? Or am I better just keeping it at 20” and when I repower, just make sure I get a 20” to replace the current motor?
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wpstarling
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by wpstarling »

I'll start by saying I've never replaced a transom, only repaired a portion of one or done an entire boat so slightly different BUT i have always seen a full transom replacement done one of 2 ways.

1) cut out from the inside anything that attaches to transom (so all those access hatches and such) then rip out the old wood/stuff and cut new wood and place it in with the epoxy 'glue' using screws on outside to tighten new transom to outside 'skin' while putting pressure from inside with clamps/straps/etc.
2) Cut out the transom on the outside of the boat and scrape everything out from there. Then put the new transom in while gluing it to any existing cleats/areas that are supported by transom (like deck). You then fill any gaps between new transom and hull and then wrap the entire outside with new fiberglass.

There may be other/better ways but that's what I've seen. They both come with their own pros and cons.

Now on the question about shaft length, you will have a very hard time running a 20" shaft motor on a 22.5" transom. If you're not ready to get a new motor then I'd build the transom at 20" for your current motor and then when you repower if you end up with a 25" you can get a bracket or jack plate that can take the offset into account (i.e. it would sit 6" back from transom but would 'raise' the motor 5" to work with 25" shaft.

There are plenty of smarter and more experienced people on here than I so you should get good feedback on your questions.
Boats restored: 1973 Glastron CV16, 1990 Proline 17 CC, 1993 Bass Boat
Boats built: custom 15ft flat bottom skiff, Soon-to-be-built TX18 (originally dborecky's build)

Fuzz
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by Fuzz »

I think I would go with wpstarling's idea but just a little different. Build the transom for a 25 inch motor. When you are done if you still want to run the old motor either buy or build a bracket to mount it. I just like a taller transom when going offshore.
I would make my cut at the back of the fuel tank. You are going to want working room.

FlounderPounder
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by FlounderPounder »

Well, the shaft length is a NON-issue. I just measured it to be sure and the transom is 26” from top to bottom and my current motor has a 25” shaft. So, that solves that!! Now only if the transom rebuild was that easy!! Haha…

I don’t wanna do the transom from the back end. I know it’s a lot easier and quicker that way, but I have all winter so I rather do it correctly and check everything else hidden away at the same time. So I’m definitely going in from inside the boat.

I agree with cutting it right by the back of the fuel tank hatch. I think that will make for the easiest repair. I have another few weeks before I start this, so hopefully some more guys will give me their 2 cents on where to cut. But right now, near the tank hatch is winning. If anyone sees a better spot that will give me enough access to do everything and make for an easier repair of the glass, please let me know.

Thanks again for all the insight.

Fuzz
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by Fuzz »

Yep making the cuts on flat spots will be much easier to put back together. And if you can remove all that hatch and stuff in one piece it will be much easier later on. I know some folks repair a transom from the outside but I never would. You have to cut the outer skin and that breaks to glass fibers into two pieces. No way to put it back together as strong as it was without a ton of work.
Glad to hear the transom height is not and issue. You did not need that headache too.

Barry_CF
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by Barry_CF »

The experienced guys are giving you advice and I'm a novice, so nothing to add.

I do wonder what makes you think the transom is bad? And I agree that you should have everything known and then order your materials at one time, especially since you have time.

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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by FlounderPounder »

Thanks Fuzz…I’m almost positive I’m going to do the cut on the floor near the fuel tank hatch. I think I should be able to get that hatch up relatively easily…and it really needs to be resealed anyway. So it will kill two birds with one stone.

Barry…I’m almost positive the transom needs to be done. I just bought the boat in the beginning of the summer. It already had those two aluminum plates on the transom which led me to believe it was “suspect” to the last guy and he added those for “some” support. Also, shortly after buying the boat, I bought a Lowrance GPS/Depth finder…when I drilled the holes for the transducer, the was no wood that came out…just “slush” for lack of a better word. Also, if you look at the two pics towards the bottom of my post with the pics (think it’s the 3rd and 4th from the bottom) you can see how far the aluminum bump guard over the top of the transom has pulled back. This exposed the top part of the transom, to which a screw driver pushes right into the wood with little resistance. I don’t think it’s completely gone, but I know it won’t last much longer…and it makes me VERY hesitant to take it out in the Ocean, especially on choppy days.

I’m sure a lot of guys will think/say it’s not worth it to do all that work to an ‘84 Overnighter, but the boat has sentimental meaning to me. My dad, who passed away 3 years ago, had an ‘86 overnighter. He sold it about 10-15 years ago to a family friend. I tried to track that actual boat down but soon found out the family friend sold it to one of his friends who gave it to his son. His son, not sure of the reason…maybe financial or I’m led to believe he was/is a “junky”, parted it out and scrapped it. So when I decided to get a boat, I wasn’t even looking for anything in particular, just a good fishing boat in the 17-21’ range…this one happened to be the first I saw and it immediately brought back great memories of my dad and fishing with him on his boat. I couldn’t pass it up!! And now that I have it, unless it is completely trashed underneath…I plan on doing whatever it takes to keep it going…in memory of my dad, Rest in Piece!!

Barry_CF
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by Barry_CF »

Gotcha.

And yea, sounds like the transom is toast. I'm working on a sentimental project myself, a boat that I have owned for 29 years, but the last 10-12 years it sat outside. So far I'm looking at a sole replacement. But it's OK, the boat has no real $$$ value, but it has value to me so I get your reasoning.

Good luck with it!

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