GT23

[fallguy1000]

I can't go along with no primer.

Even a single primer coat is like a sticky coat. The primer sticks to even slightly unsanded epoxy (think low spots). Then the ablative will also stick better to the primer than sanded epoxy. Ablatives are almost always applied before the primer cures fully (read directions).

Anyhow, ablative paint is intentionally a weak bond. You don't want a weak bond applied to no tie coat.

Ablative would not perform well on roller trailers either, so hope you are bunking.

Anyhow, my 2 cents.

[drbobopp@gmail.com]

Thanks for your quick reply.....

trying mainly to even out dimpling, today, i put a neat coat on her bottom, using FAST hardener....In places, things began to gel too fast (in the pot, on the roller. drips.....but once I got it spread out, the curing process slowed.....On the Second layer 2 hours later, stuff still tacky, I took yur advice and mixed in a bit of SLOW hardener. Also used smaller batches. Much better.

I'm gonna stop here. Several layers of epoxy, cloth, graphite (even if heavy-handedly), more epoxy....now primer and bottom paint.

Ok, i'll prime her first. Makes sense, and I prolly have enough two-part epoxy primer around to do it.

[fallguy1000]

I'm an expert user at this point with 350 gallons of use.

I'd never use fast for neatcoatinf a 23' bottom.

Good luck. I thing you need to buy the ablative before you prime. They are strict about hours after primer, ftmp.