RickW Ph18

[fallguy1000]

I use 40 grit for all sanding or 60 if I'm out of 40.

[Rrick411]

I use 40 grit for all sanding or 60 if I'm out of 40.

The 40 definitely takes material off! I thought I was going to have to work this harder than I do. Well, I think anyway. LOL Call it a teaching moment. I definitely sanded off too much material trying to sand it smooth. at least I realized it and didn't do the entire hull. Just a small area aft of where the bow eye will be. I'll lay some more glass there. When we laid the full glass sheets on the hull, my son was handling the transom end and I was on the bow. He thought it just needed a 6 inch overlap on the transom like on the keel. I ended up with the glass about halfway down the transom, so i need to laminate more glass there anyway. I'll cut my strakes, glue them down, then do the glass for the strakes, bow area I screwed up, and transom. Sand again, and think about fairing and what I want to do for paint. Yes, I have a long board for sanding the fairing. I tweaked my back yesterday doing house work, so I might just chill today. IT's never carrying plywood or lifting heavy stuff, always sweeping or mopping the floor that gets me. LOL.

[Fuzz]

Yep that sweeping and moping is some of the most dangerous things a man can do! I try to avoid it as much as possible

[OlivierP]

It's ok to take some thickness off the edge of the tape or cloth, tapered on 2-3 cm, it will make overlapping or sanding easier, the rest of the cloth will be filled with fairing mix eventually.

[Rrick411]

So I understand? Fairing mix, I bought the package with Quickfair ( Ez- fillet and Gelmagic adhesive too) is epoxy with microballoons? Easy to sand but it is still a strong epoxy?
I'll need to square up rounded corners along the chines. DO I use fairing mix for that or is a stuctural adhesive like Gelmagic (I assume that's like a mix with fibers and cab o sil?) better? OR do I use fillet?
I have mixed polyester resin and Cab o sil in the past for repairs but never used wood flour.

[Reid]

Rrick411,

The System Three Quick Fair is your fairing compound. It is an epoxy based fairing compound that is easy to apply and sand, easier to sand than mixing microballoons with epoxy.
I would recommend using Gelmagic to sharpen your chines/edges. The Gelmagic is going to be stronger and easier to shape due to its thickness.

-Reid

[Rrick411]

Rrick411,

The System Three Quick Fair is your fairing compound. It is an epoxy based fairing compound that is easy to apply and sand, easier to sand than mixing microballoons with epoxy.
I would recommend using Gelmagic to sharpen your chines/edges. The Gelmagic is going to be stronger and easier to shape due to its thickness.

-Reid

Thank You

[Rrick411]

Rrick411,

The System Three Quick Fair is your fairing compound. It is an epoxy based fairing compound that is easy to apply and sand, easier to sand than mixing microballoons with epoxy.
I would recommend using Gelmagic to sharpen your chines/edges. The Gelmagic is going to be stronger and easier to shape due to its thickness.

-Reid

Do you know if I can use a router to shape Gelmagic? Will it chip?

[joe2700]

Rrick411,

The System Three Quick Fair is your fairing compound. It is an epoxy based fairing compound that is easy to apply and sand, easier to sand than mixing microballoons with epoxy.
I would recommend using Gelmagic to sharpen your chines/edges. The Gelmagic is going to be stronger and easier to shape due to its thickness.

-Reid

Do you know if I can use a router to shape Gelmagic? Will it chip?

I think I remember it worked fine to router gelmagic, just made a mess. I'm a big fan of using a router to round over edges, but that said anywhere the chine is not a 90 degree angle it doesn't really work to do it with a router, so I ended up breaking the edge with sandpaper.

[pee wee]

Routing plastic makes what looks like shaved coconut, except with static cling! If you need a big radius but the angle was greater than 90 degrees you could remove some of it with a router and fine tune with sanding, but I thought this conversation was about squaring up a radius with gel magic.

If all you need is a 1/16 or 1/8" radius, I would do it by hand. For a larger radius, a good technique is to begin by making a consistent size 45 degree angle, then make it round with a sander with a relatively fine grit. Much as I love routers, by the time you jump through the hoops necessary to use one on a boat, you could often do it by hand quicker.*

*That doesn't apply to things like hatches and bulkheads where a router is very handy.