Mad Dog's SK14

[Mad Dog]

Progress continues a little slower than I expected but I am getting further along.

So far, I have stitched the bottom and sides then glued the seams. All the stringers and frames are glued in.



Once the wood flour glue cured enough, I flipped the hull and cleaned up the leak through and filled the seams from the outside. I have to say, it is so much easier flipping a 130-pound hull.



Tomorrow, I'll clean up the mess I made today, getting ready to cover the bottom with the clothe. Wish me luck. We are still experiencing near 100 degree temps around here. The old trick of cooling down the resin and hardener beforehand should help, some. Also, I know I can just dump each batch and spread it over the clothe quickly. Fingers crossed!

[Mad Dog]

Yesterday, I finished gluing and sanding all the bottom seams in preparation for covering it with 6 oz clothe. This took up most of the day. I managed to only lose part of a batch of filler due to the heat.









After that, I managed get the 6oz glass fitted.



Today, after church, managed to wet-out the bottom, sides, and transom. I went through six small batches epoxy to stay ahead of the kick. Using a plastic spreader, it went pretty well. I think it came out well. I wet-out well with no bubbles (yet) or wrinkles. I'll be coating the bottom with graphite next. I assume that will take the place of filling the weave.

https://www.community.boatbuildercentra ... G_2309.JPG


Something is not working with the images this evening. I'll try to fix them tomorrow.

[Jaysen]

Just from looking at the code, you are using a different image URI meaning you’ve tried to use a different way to access the image. I’m not a fan of the old gallery and honestly never bothered to figure out a reliable instruction set.

Sorry.

[pee wee]

I copied and pasted this address from your post to a new tab in my browser:
https://www.community.boatbuildercentra ... ?pid=75980

It opened the gallery with the photo, I clicked copy image address and came back here to paste and this is what it copied:
https://community.boatbuildercentral.co ... 181112.jpg

I don't know what the significance is, beyond that one works and one doesn't. Actually, it looks like one is a link to the gallery with the image, and the other one is a direct link to the image.

[Mad Dog]

Thanks Pee Wee. Now that I looked at the links, I can see they are different from the ones that worked. I'll figure out how I got the album links later today.

[Mad Dog]

I need some guidance before I move forward with the next steps. I am working toward gluing down the sole.

In the builder's notes is says to put a single doubler in the middle section. In the CNC sheets there are two backers. I assume one of those is the doubler. Is there a plan for the second one? If not, is it okay to double the doubler?

Does the placement of the doubler in the middle section matter? Since I am mounting the grabrail, then maybe as far forward in the compartment is better?

The builder's notes also say to fill the middle compartment with foam. Since most of the threads I have reviewed ordered extra foam, but I intend to stick with the design specification, is there a preferred sequence of compartments to fill after the middle compartment? I am hoping to save the large compartment under the foredeck for storage.

I didn't see this anywhere in the builder's notes but, I assume I that since I am going with the larger foredeck then the B frame is full height. With the B frame at full height then I just cut down the sole length from what came in the CNC package?

Is something like white oak suitable for the rub rails? I know it is hardwood and not so flexible but it would be durable and more rot resistant.



Thanks,
MD

[Reid]

Mad Dog,

The plans (construction page) state that the sole backing plate is comprised of (2) layers of 6mm and are placed between the stringers. The diagram shows it between frames C and D. You should be laminating the two backing plates together and placing them in between the stringers, in front of frame D.
In the build notes, Jacques states that everything under the sole should be filled with foam. This will give a lot of support to the sole. You can leave the space under the bow deck open for storage.
If you wish to keep the long foredeck then you can simply trim the sole to stop at Frame B. This will give you plenty of storage.
Using strips of any hardwood is difficult to use for rubrail due to the compound curves required to fit against the hull properly. It can be done but I prefer to use strips of plywood. I recommend using the plans and drawing out the sheer line with a 2" offset. The plywood strips should be cut to match the curvature of the sheer line. Two layers of 6mm, with the seams offset, makes a nice rubrail that lays very nicely against the hull.

-Reid

[Reid]

Mad Dog,

Sorry, I forgot to add something earlier. You can certainly add some additional 6mm panels under the sole where you plan to attach a grabrail. It did this for my FS18.
-Reid

[Mad Dog]

Thank you for the input Reid.

So, two gallons of foam may not be enough? With the current temperatures around here, I should get maximum expansion. Maybe that will do.

If I understand correctly, two layers of 6mm ply should be enough for the rub rail? I have lots of scraps left over from the CNC kit that I can piece that together.

I will laminate the two backer plates together to be placed between C and D frames.

Thanks,

MD

[Reid]

Mad Dog,

Two gallons of Foam expands to approx. 8 cubic feet (in perfect conditions). It took me approx. 3 gallons for my FS18. Two gallons should get it done for the SK14.
I did two layers of 6mm for my rubrail and it worked out really well. You can see in the photos below what I mean by matching the sheer curve for the rubrail. (yes, I cheated and used my CNC machine).

-Reid