My boat will have a dead basic electrical system. I foresee a single starter battery for the outboard and probably a single house battery.
House battery will really only power running/anchor lights and a couple of LEDs inside. So could be just power for a handful of LEDs. Really, I could probably just have each of these self contained and all but eliminate wiring. Except, I’d like to be able to charge cell phones and use/charge a laptop computer. I am able to work remotely and would like to occasionally take advantage of that for cruising.
A) what’s the simplest way to charge/power the laptop for several days at a time while remote? I suppose a small generator of the correct type would do, but seems like overkill for just a computer.
B). Is there a simple book to recommend for the correct answers for stuff I really do need to know? I’ve rewired a house, but know nothing about DC or marine or solar(if that’s a workable option). On the other hand, there’s no need for me to get bogged down with large complex systems either.
Thanks.
Jbo
BASIC electrical system info.
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Re: BASIC electrical system info.
Power demands for a laptop are not high, but way easiest to provide AC using an inverter. Inverter losses are about 15-20%.
You only need a generator for refridgeration.
What is the engine plan for the boat?
I can help, but need the basics..
You only need a generator for refridgeration.
What is the engine plan for the boat?
I can help, but need the basics..
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Re: BASIC electrical system info.
Every hot wire, except the starter, in a boat, is fused, done right,
- BarraMan
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Re: BASIC electrical system info.
Is that so? I run a fridge and a separate freezer in my SUV off an inverter!fallguy1000 wrote: ↑Wed Jan 03, 2024 12:38 am Power demands for a laptop are not high, but way easiest to provide AC using an inverter. Inverter losses are about 15-20%.
You only need a generator for refridgeration.
What is the engine plan for the boat?
I can help, but need the basics..
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Re: BASIC electrical system info.
BarraMan wrote: ↑Wed Jan 03, 2024 2:27 amIs that so? I run a fridge and a separate freezer in my SUV off an inverter!fallguy1000 wrote: ↑Wed Jan 03, 2024 12:38 am Power demands for a laptop are not high, but way easiest to provide AC using an inverter. Inverter losses are about 15-20%.
You only need a generator for refridgeration.
What is the engine plan for the boat?
I can help, but need the basics..
Your suv has a big engine and alternator!
HE WANTS TO RUN A LAPTOP!
come on Lee, you need a coffee or somethin
Re: BASIC electrical system info.
Engine will initially be an older Evinrude Fastwin, so likely no help there, but will eventually be a newer 4 stroke high thrust in the 9.9-25 range. Don’t know what the lag will be in the change to the newer motor. Will depend heavily on usage of the boat and effectiveness of the Fastwin.
Jbo
Would love to see A/C in the future, but it’s just not feasible based on vessel size and power(generator) demand.
Jbo
Would love to see A/C in the future, but it’s just not feasible based on vessel size and power(generator) demand.
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Re: BASIC electrical system info.
A typical laptop uses 60-110 watts (edited)
using 110v, this is 1 amp
EDIT. I did not multiply this by the hours and go into consumption as was trying to keep it simpler to size the inverter needed
But you always size up the inverter a bit to say 150w.
You can buy them for 20-120 bucks on amazon.
The way a boat system works is simple.
The negatives go to a busbar.
The hots to a fuse panel. All wires are fused; so the power from the house battery is fused and goes to the fuse panel.
using 110v, this is 1 amp
EDIT. I did not multiply this by the hours and go into consumption as was trying to keep it simpler to size the inverter needed
But you always size up the inverter a bit to say 150w.
You can buy them for 20-120 bucks on amazon.
The way a boat system works is simple.
The negatives go to a busbar.
The hots to a fuse panel. All wires are fused; so the power from the house battery is fused and goes to the fuse panel.
Last edited by fallguy1000 on Fri Jan 05, 2024 8:57 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: BASIC electrical system info.
I don't know the potential problems, but wouldn't solar be an easy way? I've seen people charge their phones with teeny solar panels (probably not quickly), but if the voltage is right it seems plausible.
Hank
Re: BASIC electrical system info.
How much solar would it take to keep the house battery topped off? Feasible to keep both systems entirely separate and have solar for house and engine only maintain the starting battery?
Jbo
Jbo
- Jaysen
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Re: BASIC electrical system info.
I'll be the a$$ hat on this.
You already have fuel on board. For the price of a proper solar charger to maybe keep up with your day time demand on perfect days, you can buy a very very quiet (and small) Honda generator to run a charger/conditioner and/or inverter. The simple path is the right path in this case.
That said, spend about $2k in panels, charge controller and LiPO batts and you can do it with solar/wind but you will have to go a couple days with no use to get batts topped off. Inverters are WAY less efficient than folks think they are.
For the record, I'm doing the "full solar" thing for an off-grid project chicken coop/food plot. Dumbest idea I've ever had. pretty sure it would be smarter to just pay for power on the lot.
You already have fuel on board. For the price of a proper solar charger to maybe keep up with your day time demand on perfect days, you can buy a very very quiet (and small) Honda generator to run a charger/conditioner and/or inverter. The simple path is the right path in this case.
That said, spend about $2k in panels, charge controller and LiPO batts and you can do it with solar/wind but you will have to go a couple days with no use to get batts topped off. Inverters are WAY less efficient than folks think they are.
For the record, I'm doing the "full solar" thing for an off-grid project chicken coop/food plot. Dumbest idea I've ever had. pretty sure it would be smarter to just pay for power on the lot.
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