RB16 new build KY 1st timer

[pee wee]

Quickfair is good stuff, a bit pricey when you have to buy quantities of it. You can save some money by filling the low areas and also doing a first weave fill with epoxy/woodflour or silica. The watchword is neat- lay it down smoothly so you don't have to sand so much. Use a guidecoat to help identify low spots and don't apply filler to high spots, because they don't need it.

[TommyD]

One side scuffed up in about 20m. Spent most of the day Sunday watching basketball and reading about trying to avoid sanding

Is that too much? Tried to just get to the cotton?

What do ya think?

[Jaysen]

In my experence, the white chunks should be silica. micro balloons are typically purple/red. The pink is pink because the siica "powder" mixes in with the balloons.

yes, i used a scraper (bond type) to apply my hard mixture. You need eough of the balloons to keep it from being too brittle or it will crack when the hull flexes. This is one of those "wood should be better" but I like to not leave opportunity for anyone to suggest water absorption in the epoxy.

[TommyD]

Thanks Jaysen, did you think the sanding looked ok?

[Jaysen]

Hard to tell, but maybe just a tad more than needed. You don’t want to sand into the glass. Just reduce the cotton strands. I tend to take the approach that the cotton vanishes as I fair as much as it does before I fair so…

[TommyD]

Harder does mean “not as fun to sand” but a cautious application followed by a green application of fairing compound makes that mostly moot.

[Jaysen or anyone. is my green application for the quickfair still 24 hrs after the silica/microballoon application?

[Jaysen]

I’m going by “technical specifications” because my username is red and folks assume I represent BBC (I don’t work for them as much as I volunteer to help here to ensure the forum stays free).

When you mix different brands of epoxy you need absolute cure when switching. Aka no wet or green. So if you are using BBC marine epoxy for the glass and switch to S3 quick you should go full cure. This is why I mix my own fill and fair. You can get a LOT of sanding done green. And it’s EASY. Even if it’s silica.

If it were me I would use BBC with fairing mix+silica to fill applied via flexible trowel, then BBC fairing mix after fill hardens but is green, let that become sand-able (12hr) then 80gr fair, bbc fairing mix again with 12hr pause, 80gr fair, 72hr cure at 70+F then quick fair to finish.

That would be more by the book.

[TommyD]

Jaysen, Not what I wanted to hear but thanks for the clarification. 72hrs it is.

[Buz]

Thank you, Jaysen. Those precise instructions are much appreciated.

[Jaysen]

Recall that those are “technical specifications” as advised by manufacturers. Read some threads and you may find folks to inquire about shortened time.

That said, making fainting mix is a handy skill. If you have the pink powder make a small batch. More powder to make a pastier consistency. For filling weave, a bit runnier (harder) but more flow. For subsequent fairing layers more like cake frosting.