RB16 new build KY 1st timer

[Dougster]

I had something like that on the LB22 and faired it out. Dunno if it was necessary or not. The biger gap areas can take a piece of fiberglass to use less Quickfair.

Dougster

[TommyD]

Having trouble determining where the side fenders go on the hull? Any suggestions how far above the chine?

Certain I’ve read about it before but can’t find it now. TIA

[TommyD]

So I put epoxy on the rest of the hull after glassing all the seems and using wide FG to cover the bottom and 6” past the chine. Filled the weave with micro balloons and resin and have faired the hull with quickfair.

Now wondering what prep I should follow for pennant primer?

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/9odqbxiu ... zy8r2&dl=0

The instructions for fiberglass coated with epoxy resin looks like I just sand and continue with primer?

The instructions for epoxy coated wood says put down 3 more coats of epoxy?

The system 3 pennant primer says I should put down 3 coats of resin and sand before using the primer. Does that mean 3 additional coats or do I get credit for the one coat I’ve already put down above?

[Reid]

Tommy,

Once you are satisfied with your fairing, go ahead and coat with the primer. Once your first coat of primer is applied, every little flaw will pop out at you. At this point you can go back with more Quick Fair and fix any issues. I like to then coat with an additional 2 coats of primer. Once the primer has cured, sand to your desired smoothness. (I personally don't go past 220 or 320 grit). Once sanding is complete, let the primer full cure/off gas for 5-6 days prior to paint. Make sure you clean the primer surface thoroughly prior to paint. I use microfiber cloths and make several passes with denatured alcohol. Don't touch the surface with bare hands once it is clean and ready for paint. Oils from your hands could cause imperfections in the paint finish.

Good luck!
-Reid

[TommyD]

Bump for Reid or anyone. RB18 has it at 1-3/4 above chine. Is that good?

At what point do you install? Before or after primer?

Reid thanks for your reply above

Having trouble determining where the side fenders go on the hull? Any suggestions how far above the chine?

[Reid]

Tommy,

I would think that the RB18 measurement would be sufficient (or at least get you in the ballpark).
I like to put strakes/keels/skegs on my hulls after the hull has been fiberglassed and faired and before the primer. This way if you happen to hit something and it pulls away from your hull you didn't do any damage to the underlying hull lamination. It makes this part kind of sacrificial.

-Reid

[TommyD]

found it
The chine fender will protect the hull sides when coming alongside a dock and also provide lift and dynamic lateral stability at high speed. If you plan to go fast, add the chine fender.
You can make it wider. The lower face of the fender is located 2” (5 cm) above the DWL or 7” (175 mm) above the keel level. It is installed parallel to the DWL, epoxy glued to the hull

[TommyD]

Reid where exactly do I need to create a sharp edge with putty? All the outside edges of the chine fender?

Strakes, chine steps and other skegs.
Post by jacquesmm »
If you build one of my designs with a built-in step chine, I recommend to add some putty to that corner and build a sharp edge.

[pee wee]

On a planing hull you want sharp edges (not knife sharp, maybe 1/16 to 1/32" radius) where the hull meets the transom, and places like the step chine where the design wants the water to break free of the hull. A knife edge would work, but it would get damaged easily and paint won't stay on sharp edges, so a slight round works well.

[Reid]

Tommy,

Basically, anywhere water will be releasing from the hull. For example, on my FS18 I sharpened the bottom of the transom and the chines. The chines were sharpened from the transom and up to about 6 feet.

-Reid