OB15 - seams and chines, what tape? And daily screw-up

[OlivierP]

For the bow, pulling it down with weights may help, but what would help more is to spread and pull the sides up at their current low point, about 1' behind the bow. No idea how to do that, but with a little imagination... then put a temporary mold or spreader in place at that location, at least until you have installed the rub rail, which will "freeze" the sheer.

[joe2700]

If I'm picturing what you are trying to do correctly which I'm not certain I am, I have two thoughts

First packing tape works great, epoxy doesn't stick to it at all, on the outside. You don't tape so the adhesive side of the tape is against the epoxy, epoxy has some solvent properties and the tape will stop sticking. It might work to stop a minor drip or something but you won't be making a dam from the sticky side of any normal tape.

Second you should never be using neat(plain) epoxy to fill any significant volume. It is not strong in that way, is a waste of weight and money, and yes will get too hot while curing. You use neat epoxy for wetting out fiberglass or coating things. If you are using it to fill something you add some sort of filler to the epoxy.

[Buz]

Thanks y'all. I poured a bit more than an ounce per foot on top of scraps and sawdust in there. Saw it running when I looked up from mixing second 9oz.

I was thinking the mix should be ketchup to self-level.

I did not know that tape only holds back thickened epoxy. Not something I noticed painting neat along my dinghy holes. Less epoxy there, makes sense. Did my dams wrong, too, but it never ran that far.