Misc. Sanding thoughts
Posted: Tue Nov 09, 2004 10:23 am
I posted this on a sanding thread on the Tolman board. I thouhgt it might be of use to some here.
Some sanding tips FWIW
The most important thing is to put the epoxy on where and how you want
it. If you could you would not need sandpaper. Experiment with
different tools and work with the epoxy in various stages of its cure.
You will be able to shape semi-cured epoxy in ways you cannot work
freshly mixed epoxy.
I bought a Dura-Block at an auto paint store. It is a foam block
about 2 1/2" x 16". Precut sticky back 40 grit paper is also
availible. The Dura-Block was $20.00. The paper is $.90. The paper
lasts quite a while but if you want a bunch it can be had
inexpensively on eBay. Sanding with two hands on the Dura-Block lets
you tear off fairing compound in a hurry, plus the block is designed
to fair curved surfaces. Once you get the feel of it it works great.
Get after semi cured epoxy with a surform tool. This is the an easy
way to reduce sanding.
I use a cabinet scraper (A steel plate approx. 2" x 5" made by Sandvik
and others) to smooth epoxy coated surfaces. You can use it when the
epoxy is semi-cured and it will roll up and redistribute the epoxy,
filling in low spots and knocking down high spots. It actually looks
burnished. The scraper can be pushed or pulled and bent to give a
slightly curved cutting surface. Sharpen regularily with a file. It
also works on hardened epoxy. This site has the basic info on
scrapers. http://www.woodzone.com/articles/scrapers/
I found that a little time experimenting can save big time when
building because you can develop fast techniques that you will use
repeatedly, i.e. ad nauseum.
Larry
Some sanding tips FWIW
The most important thing is to put the epoxy on where and how you want
it. If you could you would not need sandpaper. Experiment with
different tools and work with the epoxy in various stages of its cure.
You will be able to shape semi-cured epoxy in ways you cannot work
freshly mixed epoxy.
I bought a Dura-Block at an auto paint store. It is a foam block
about 2 1/2" x 16". Precut sticky back 40 grit paper is also
availible. The Dura-Block was $20.00. The paper is $.90. The paper
lasts quite a while but if you want a bunch it can be had
inexpensively on eBay. Sanding with two hands on the Dura-Block lets
you tear off fairing compound in a hurry, plus the block is designed
to fair curved surfaces. Once you get the feel of it it works great.
Get after semi cured epoxy with a surform tool. This is the an easy
way to reduce sanding.
I use a cabinet scraper (A steel plate approx. 2" x 5" made by Sandvik
and others) to smooth epoxy coated surfaces. You can use it when the
epoxy is semi-cured and it will roll up and redistribute the epoxy,
filling in low spots and knocking down high spots. It actually looks
burnished. The scraper can be pushed or pulled and bent to give a
slightly curved cutting surface. Sharpen regularily with a file. It
also works on hardened epoxy. This site has the basic info on
scrapers. http://www.woodzone.com/articles/scrapers/
I found that a little time experimenting can save big time when
building because you can develop fast techniques that you will use
repeatedly, i.e. ad nauseum.
Larry