Painted and Completed V12 - with Outboard performance report

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Rich_L
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Painted and Completed V12 - with Outboard performance report

Post by Rich_L »

4 coats of S3 Primer on the inside over a two day period.

The first coat was done just 12 hours after applying the second of two Marinepoxy epoxy coatings with medium hardener on back to back evenings. This way I avoided having to sand either of the epoxy coatings.

I used an inexpensive Wagner Fine Spray HVLP sprayer:
  • Thinned the primer 20% with 50/50 mix of isopropyl alcohol and distilled water per the System Three application guide; and
    Set the sprayer to the highest flow rate of IV.

The only significant lesson learned was that on the outside hull I will attempt to lay down more paint on the first coat. I'll have to do this by moving the sprayer more slowly. This may prevent the orange peel finish that I got.

The orange peel affect is insignificant enough that I actually rather like it for the inside, and would consider not even sanding the primer because it is very even as is. But I'll sand as needed for adhesion of the paint and as practice for the outside hull in case I again get orange peel there.

Image

Image

Image

Image

The above photos were taken 12 hours after the last primer coat. The primer was still very slightly tacky at this point. This is longer than you might expect from the product literature, and is probably due to the fact that I laid the primer on epoxy coatings that had not yet fully cured. So the combination is likely lengthening the primer cure. Twelve hours after these photos the primer was hardening up nicely.

P.S.
  • The four coats used 8/10 of a gallon of primer.
    Stirring the sediment from the bottom of the can of primer prior to application was harder than dredging New York Harbor - I've done both.
    I strained the thinned primer as it was poured into the sprayer - that was really easy.
Rich
Last edited by Rich_L on Tue Sep 06, 2005 5:17 pm, edited 3 times in total.


When can we go fishing?

JollyLolly
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Post by JollyLolly »

That is one pretty looking boat. I am planning on building the V12 for my next project, and seeing yours has just added to my resolve. :D/
Laurence
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Barney
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Post by Barney »

Great job so far, Rich. I've been studying your V12 website carefully since before I started my V12, and have found it to be very useful. I especially benefited from your 'lessons learned' section. Keep up the posting, and looking forward to seeing the finished product! :)

MADwand
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Post by MADwand »

White finishes are really beautiful on the inside of FG boats, but damn that's gonna put a beatin on your eyes in the sun!

Mike Adams
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Post by Mike Adams »

That looks a real nice job, Rich!
FL14 "Lake Dreamer" built.

Rich_L
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Post by Rich_L »

Image
What a whopper image - and the file size is relatively small -
it's linked back to my web site so it apparently gets
overblown going that route!
Anyway...

I waited three weeks after applying the Sytem Three
epoxy-based primer before applying the System Three linear
polyurethane paint with crosslinker.

This allowed the primer plenty of time to cure, of particular
concern because it was applied wet-on-wet to the underlying
two epoxy barrier coats.

I sprayed six coats with crosslinker in six hours, using the
same Wagner Fine Spray equipment as with the primer.
I used the flow setting of III (out of maximum IV) and
did not thin the paint. It was applied at 70 degrees F
and seemed to flow out well enough.

The slight orange peel from the primer, which I did not
attempt to sand out, is still evident in the painted surface.
That's fine with me for the interior.

I also got some uneven, additional gloss were I apparently
over applied the paint in places (see the center seat top).
This would likely disappear with light sanding.

Otherwise, I'm not planning to sand. The bit of roughness
in the surface serves as nonskid as far as I'm concerned.

And I'm absolutely satisfied with the way it looks.
I'm especially pleased with the degree to which my fairing
effort proved sufficient. That would have been the hardest
thing to overcome if not adequate.

You may note that the breasthook, knees, and rubrail are
different color than the interior. They are Orcas White.
The interior is Orcas White tinted by Sherwin-Williams to
closely match their Dover White. Orcas White is a close
match to Sherwin-Williams' Extra White base paint, used
for the less deep shades on any of their color strips. The
deeper shades on any of their color strips require their
other, opaque base - so it's uncertain if Orcas White could
be used to match them. The amount of tinting was a lot less
than the 2-3 oz. that S3 technical support suggested should
be the limit added.

Rich
When can we go fishing?

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JeffS
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Post by JeffS »

Nice job. I used the same sprayer as you did and was very happy with the results. I did not use it for the primer, but was pleased to see that it worked for you. I really liked the system three paints and primers. I could get three coats in a day and no stink. I used a different brand (imeron) for my stenciling and striping. I rolled and tipped this. It worked fine and has a very high gloss. However, I had to wait 16 hours between coats, it smelled bad, and had to be sanded between coats.

Keep up the nice work.

JeffS

Rich_L
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Post by Rich_L »

Image


On the outside, I sanded the primer with up to #150 grit. That was certainly fine enough
because my paint finish did not turn out that
smooth. The color is System Three Orcas White tinted by Sherwin-
Williams to match their Candid Blue. That's the deepest shade that would normally be
based on Sherwin-Williams' Extra White base paint,
which Orcas White approximates. Deeper shades reguire their opaque base paint.

My spraying the WR-LPU color top coat worked best when thinned 20%, and using setting III
(out of IV) on the Wagner Fine Spray.
My first three coats using the IV setting in an effort to reduce orange
peel by laying down more paint were unsuccessful - and I had to sand
the orange peel down. Thereafter, I used the III setting with greater success and applied
five more finer coats - these laid down with
only slight orange peel.

Thereafter, I painted the transom Orcas White.

I then applied System Three WR-LPU clear gloss thinned 20% on top
of it all. I made five attempts at spraying, but each one failed to
provide even gloss. I think the difficulty was two-fold:
  • Preventing overspray onto just painted surfaces which causes surface roughness -
    although I thought I was controlling this with
    careful aiming of the spray gun; but it also seemed to be
    complicated by...
    The more level surfaces of the bottom had uneven gloss, as
    compared to the sides which had more even gloss - I think
    the clear gloss flowed out better on the steeper sides.
Anyway, after five trial and error attempts including standing
on my head, I resorted to the roll and tip method. Hey, it
isn't the finest surface, but it sure is shiney. So with two
coats additional using this method, I'm satisfied.

By the way, if you're counting coats, I'm up to armor plating
(they're all crosslinked) and way over design weight. But I've
completed the painting...

...except for an accent stripe yet to come after it's cured.

Image

Rich
When can we go fishing?

Barney
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Post by Barney »

Nice job! What more is there to say?

dsouter
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Post by dsouter »

A note on Orange Peel. It's an effect of sprayed paint drying.
It happens. Custom painters for cars,motorcycles spend hours wet sanding the effect out before clear coat and between sessions.


Looks great btw!

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