OB15 in NC - Flounder Drum Trout

[rick berrey]

I would post problems up top , I will generally look at most all post up top , but only the boat builds I am interested in on bottom forums . Some of the builds I look at only every so often to ketch up on pictures and progress .

[Fuzz]

Back when I joined builders would post their builds in the bottom forums. The upper ones were there mostly to ask the designer questions. That way he did not have to go through every post every day. At this point I am not sure it really matters where you post your build.
As for the filling of the gap problem I think the guys have given you the right answers. I like to over fill the seams and sand the extra off. That way saves me the time of having to go back and fill any lows. Plus you always need to sand to round things over and prep for glassing. I have really nice sanding tools so I might be different than others.
I asked about pictures because I like my boat porn and it makes it much easier to see what is happening.

[Buz]

Uh thanks. You seem to be helpful and I know you dont owe me nuthin, but imagine the difference in my day had you just told me that the night before last instead of waiting a day and then reaffirming what others said. Thank you.

[Fuzz]

Uh thanks. You seem to be helpful and I know you dont owe me nuthin, but imagine the difference in my day had you just told me that the night before last instead of waiting a day and then reaffirming what others said. Thank you.

What makes this forum is it has always been made up with friendly folks who love boats. They want nothing more than to see others succeed and to watch it happen. And maybe be of help if it is needed. Not sure what I did wrong but at this point I think I will step away from your thread and let others help. Good luck with your build and I hope it goes well for you.

[Buz]

Post edited for brevity. Then again to add details.

Chine work has gone well.

Dont drill holes in chine panels until the bottoms are stitched not-too-loose and hung and the sides are hung in their notches, and PVC spacers are in place. Then look at which direction you need to pull that hole before drilling. Holes for these chine flats are a different distance than for regular seams.

When you tack weld the hull, tack the keel and transom as normal but instead run crude fillets on the inside (outside the boat) of the chine with PB and fill the chine holes. Dont have to be purty and radiused in there, it'll be covered when you fill it.

Slow hardener for big batches.

I initially mixed 9 oz batches of ketchup for the chine fill. Build a dam the width of the chine at the stern with PB. Also build another dam the width of your chine with thick putty where the chine starts curving and dropping at the bow end. In my experience, it was best to build the narrowing bow part of the chine in front of the glue dam with thicker glue rather than using thin glue and gravity to self-level. Start filling with ketchup at the stern, pouring batches along the chine to create about a 1/4" puddle for several feet each batch. Your mix should self-level. Let each layer dry overnight, then fill again a few times in a similar manner until the chine is nearly filled. I took a couple days to fill these layers. For the last layer pour a smaller (6oz) fill batch of ketchup and use your flat-tipped stick to pull the ketchup back into itself to build up the puddle to level with the side panel and to get the correct width onto the bottom panel. Keep pulling the fill from bow back toward the stern as it tries to flow forward. Add batches to the front of the puddle, pulling resin back into the puddle to fill. Work batches from stern to bow, pulling each batch back into itself to build correct depth until it starts to jell.

One of the most important things I have discovered for boat building-- If you haven't used System3 microballoons, you should! Mix it, you'll immediately know why.

[Buz]

Chines filled, seams taped, exterior coated, ready for a final sand before adding wide cloth.

[Buz]

[Buz]

[Buz]

[Buz]

Time to plan power for this 17'6", extended sheer, OB15.

I'm trying to decide between a remote steer 125lb 20hp (2cyl) Suzuki and their 158lb (3cyl) 25hp. I'd really prefer to use the smaller of the two because I can buy a 9.9hp with a 25" shaft and convert it fairly easily to a 20, allowing a taller transom and saving a bit of weight. Ya can't buy a 20 or 25 horse with a 25" shaft.

Best I can figure, I need to plan for 1200lbs. Two batteries, 12v Terrova, 2 fishermen.

Tom, can you tell me if the 20 is going to be enough?

Anybody else have similar experience or ideas to share?